PIXAPRO® LUMI II 200 200Ws Studio Flash (GS200II) | Essential Photo | Photographic lighting and equpiment
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Specialist in studio lighting equipment and accessories for the Digital, Film and Video industries

PIXAPRO® LUMI II 200 200Ws Studio Flash (GS200II)

Product Code: A-010601   Availability: In stock
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Product Information


PLEASE NOTE: This video is not full a representation of what is included in this listing as some items are used for demonstration purposes only. Please see the “Specifications” tab for information on what this listing includes.

The PIXAPRO® LUMI II 200 flash (Godox Gemini GS200 II), is a stylish, robust, versatile and dependable studio monolight strobe suitable for both the serious Amateur photographer and the Pro User alike. It offers an impressive flash duration of up to 1/2000th of a second, as well as super-fast recycling time at just over one second.

The PIXAPRO® LUMI II 200 features a bright 150w modelling lamp, and a 200Ws flash tube, that has a 6-stop power range (1/1 – 1/32 power) which can be adjusted in 1/10 of a stop increments. The power output is represented by 5.0 (min.) to 8.0 (max.) on the digital screen located at the back of the unit. The Lumi 200 also features an Auto-Dump feature, meaning that you don’t have to manually discharge your flash then you reduce its output power. The power of the flash and the modelling lamp can be adjusted using two control dial located at the back of the unit.

The PIXAPRO® LUMI II 200 features a built-in 2.4GHz flash receiver, which allows it to be used in conjunction with the ST-III, ST-IV, ECO 2.4 or Pro AC 2.4GHz flash Triggers. This allows you to control your flash heads remotely, removing the need to go up and individually adjust every light in your set up, saving you precious time. It also has a 3.5mm sync jack allowing it to be triggered by a sync cable, or other radio triggering systems. It also features an intelligent slave cell that can be set to ignore a Pre-Flash allowing it to be used in conjunction with your TTL flashes with no problems, opening up a whole new world of lighting possibilities.



  • Simple Intuitive controls
  • Built-In 2.4GHz Flash Receiver
  • 6 f-Stop Power Range - 1/1-1/32 power in 1/3 or 1/10 Stop  Increments (With Supported Flash Triggers)
  • Fast Recycling times
  • Flash Duration of up to 1/2000s (Dependant on flash output)
  • Digital Display to show Flash Output
  • Optional Wireless Remote power control and flash triggering system.
  • High-quality 150W modelling lamp
  • Multiple modelling control modes.
  • Anti-pre-flash function, allowing the Lumi 200 to be used with Speedlites.
  • Automatic power dump feature.
  • Auto memory to recover your previous settings.
  • Compatible with a wide range of S-Type Accessories and Modifiers
  • Ideal for
    • Baby photo and school portrait,
    • Beauty and fashion photography eg. makeup and hair shoot
    • Still life shooting and product photography,
    • Event and wedding shooting eg. prom

  For PiXAPRO Studio Strobe Comparison, Please Click Here.

  For Spec. & Price Comparison with other popular Brands, Please Click Here.


This product is provided with a UK 3-Pin Power cable, if you require an EU power cable please notify us when purchasing your item.




Max Power (WS)


Guide Number

49(m ISO 100)

Colour Temperature

5600 ± 200K

Operating Voltage


Power Output Control

OFF, 1/32~1/1

Modelling Lamp (W)


Recycle Time


Triggering Method

Sync cord, Test button, Slave triggering, Wireless control port

Receiver Frequency


Trigger Voltage (Sync Jack)


Trigger Voltage (USB Port)

5V/200mA (PIXAPRO Receiver Only)

Flash Duration






Height (With Handle)


 Length (With Lamp Cover)


Net Weight

Approx. 2.0kg




Lumi 200 II asStudio Flash Head


Power Cable


Lamp Cover


150w Modelling Bulb




As used by:

Delivery Information

Here at PIXAPRO we try to keep our prices as low as possible, this includes our shipping costs. Unfortunately due to a recent price increase from our courier we have had to increase our shipping prices for our International standard delivery service, which will be in place from the 31st of July 2018. We apologise for any inconvenience this has caused and would like to thank you for your continued support and understanding.

Free UK Standard delivery on orders over £150*


Our Delivery Options

with order tracking, quick notifications, and trained support team



1.       What are my delivery options to the UK? 

  •     UK Saver Delivery £5.00 – We recommend allowing 2-3 working days for your order to reach you.

Order Date (if received before 3pm)

Latest Expected Delivery Date














  • UK Next Working Day Delivery £8.00 – If your order is received before our daily cut off time of 3:00pm, your order will be dispatched out from our warehouse the same day. You should then expect to receive your order the next working day.

Order Date (if received before 3pm)

Latest Expected Delivery Date

Monday - Thursday

Next Working Day





  •    UK Before 2pm Next Working Day Delivery £18.00 – If your order is received before our cut off time, you should expect to receive your order before 1pm the next working day.

Order Date (if received before 3pm)

Latest Expected Delivery Date

Monday - Thursday

Before 2pm Next Working Day


Before 2pm Monday


Before 2pm Tuesday


  •    UK Saturday Delivery £30.00 – If your order is received before 3pm on Friday afternoon, you should expect to receive...


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Reviews for PIXAPRO® LUMI II 200 200Ws Studio Flash (GS200II)

(5)   By: Simon | 30 January, 2018

Good value basic strobe producing nice quality light.

Good value basic strobe producing nice quality light.

(5)   By: A Sayer | 10 February, 2017

PIXAPRO® LUMI 200 200Ws Studio Flash

Very good budget studio flash, well made easy to operate, easy to set up with remote triggers, very pleased.

(5)   By: Peter W | 18 July, 2016

Excellemt Quality Light

I have only recently started to equip my home studio. I already have some much cheaper Chinese strobe flash lights (about £40 to £50 each) which, although they work satisfactorily, are nowhere near the build quality and versatility of this Pixapro Lumi light. It is strongly built in metal rather than plastic so that I am happy to hang a soft box onto it, which with cheaper plastic lights would not be a good idea. It has a strong and well made clamp to adjust the angle of the light, which doesn't slip when a soft box is added. It is heavier than a plastic light but is nicely balanced with no toppling risk until light modifiers are fitted, but this is not a problem with a decent quality stand ballasted with sand bag or weights and well spread legs.

It has an internal cooling fan and independently controllable model, strobe light and beep function. It can work as a master or slave light. If you have a radio transmitter with built in control functions fitted to your camera hot shoe then light brightness settings (model and strobe} are adjustable from the camera. There is a USB socket to plug an all singing/dancing wireless receiver into for full remote control, as well as the usual 3.5mm sync socket for sync cable or simple basic triggering receiver. A nice touch is the provision of a hole in the reflector to enable an umbrella to be fitted with the reflector attached.

I didn't mind paying more to get so much more quality and versatility. It's too early to be able to comment on how well it will last with regular and hard use but am optimistic in view of its build quality. The instruction manual is well written too, without the usual poor English often found with so many other products.

(Taken from our Amazon store to see this review please go to the following link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/PIXAPRO%C2%AE-Monolight-fanCooled-FastDelivery-2YearWarranty/dp/B00HU1CXRK/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&srs=8455360031&ie=UTF8&qid=1468832728&sr=1-18#customerReviews )

(5)   By: Mark Wilbrey | 2 October, 2014

PIXAPRO Eco System

To see a review on our PIXAPRO Eco System please go to the following link

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Please note, from Friday 1st June 2018, our orginial return policy of 30-days will be replaced with a 28-day return policy.

Return Address

50 Popes Lane
West Midlands
United Kingdom
B69 4PA


Please ensure the return address does not include the address line "Bradfield House" as any items going to this address will not be returned back to us and we may not be able to retrieve the return. Therefore, as mentioned please ensure the address line is as shown above.


Returning for a refund
Return goods for refund is governed under The Sale of Goods Act and Distance Selling Regulations.

1. Notify us of our return
Please contact info@essentialphoto.co.uk by sending your return form within 14 days of your purchase date, to notify of your return. Please find our return form here.


2. Return your goods
You will then have another 14 days to return the goods in the orginial condition/packaging.
Your return must arrive back in our returns department within 28 days of your purchase date. Any goods returned after this period will not be refunded and only returned once postage has been paid. Please be aware, PiXAPRO/Essentialphoto cannot be held responsible for any lost/missing or damaged items when the buyer returns the item. Return postage must be covered by you and is non-refundable.

3. Include a return form in your parcelREQUIRED
Missing return forms can cause a delay with the refund process. Your return number is your order number, this must be visible and correct on the return form. Please be aware, without the proof of an order number, PiXAPRO/EssentialPhoto hold the right to deny a return request. 

4. Refund process -
Once your goods arrive back, they will be checked over and approved. Approved returns will be refunded within 7 working days and will be refunded by the orginial payment method to the orginial account only. The time it takes for the refund amount to show in...


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Questions & Answers


When using a manual flash, you must set your camera to Manual Exposure Mode. From there you can control your flash exposure by either, adjusting the flash power on your flash head, adjusting your aperture, or your ISO.

hutter speed doesn’t affect flash exposure, however, you are limited by your camera’s “sync Speed” as to what shutter speeds you can use (most cameras have a maximum sync speed of between 1/125th of a second, and 1/250th of a second – Please refer to your camera’s user manual for further details).

Whilst Shutter Speed doesn’t affect flash exposure, it can be used to control the amount of ambient light that appears in your final photograph. The more ambient light that you want to appear in your photograph, the slower your shutter speed should be. Alternatively, the less ambient light that you would like to appear in your photograph, the faster the shutter speed you should use.

A good starting point is to use a setting of ISO 100, f/8.0 with a shutter speed of 1/125 second, and then adjust your flash power, or camera setting according to your needs or taste


Yes, this will include a 2 year UK warranty. Any issues with your items will be sent back to and dealt with by our team based in the UK. This means a faster turnover time to resolve any issues and a dedicated UK based customer service team.


This product is provided with a UK 3-Pin Power cable, if you require an EU power cable please notify us when purchasing your item.


To see a Specification & Price Comparison with other popular brands, please go to the following link HERE


While the screen at the back of your camera will give you a fair idea of how your photograph is going to look, it doesn’t give you an accurate representation of your exposure as the screen on the back of your camera isn’t calibrated. If need to see a more accurate representation of your photograph as you shoot, it is possible to connect most DSLR cameras to your computer which will give you a more accurate representation of your exposure (tethering to a computer with a calibrated screen is recommended).

In order to do this, you will need software that supports “Tethered Capture” (such as Adobe Lightroom or Apple Aperture etc.) and also some way of connecting your camera to your computer (usually via a USB cable).

Please NOTE: Not all cameras support Tethered Capture, and not all software that supports tethered capture supports all cameras. Check with the manufacturers beforehand.


With our Pro AC Triggers, you have the ability to remotely control the Power Output of all of our flashes individually, or simultaneously in up to 16 different groups. This saves you from having to go up to each and every light individually to change the power of each light. It is also great for lights that are on a boom, removing the need to climb a ladder or to lower your boom to change the settings. You can also switch modelling lamps on and off with our triggers.

NOTE: Only compatible with PIXAPRO Studio Strobes and Portable Flashes.


The Lumi heads all feature an intelligent slave mode (slave mode 2) which allows them to be triggered with a TTL speedlite or your Camera's pop-up flash. However your camera’s pop-up flash or speedlite can only be used to optically trigger the Lumi flashes.


This is not the case. You cannot directly compare the Guide Number (GN) ratings for Speedlites and the GN ratings for Studio lights as they are measured in slightly different way.

When Speedlite Guide Numbers are measured, it is usually at its highest possible Zoom setting, which creates a very small concentrated pool of light. The guide number of Studio flashes on the other hand, are usually measured with a standard reflector mounted on the front which produces a much larger, pool of light.

For example, if you had a Speedlite with a GN of 56m that had a zoom range of 24-105mm, the guide number of the flash, would be 56m when zoomed to 105mm. However if you zoom it out to give your speedlite an equivalent beam angle of a studio flash with a standard reflector (which normally falls between 35mm and 50mm), the actual GN of your speedlite would fall to somewhere between 38-44m.


The Guide numbers give you a more accurate indication of the flash power as the amount of light put out by different flash heads of the same Watt second (Ws) rating can differ.

The Guide Number tells you the maximum flash-to-subject distance (normally given in metres or feet) that will give you a correct exposure at a given ISO (usually ISO 100) with a standard reflector attached to the flash. For example, Lumi 200 has a GN of 49m at ISO 100 with a standard reflector should correctly illuminate a subject 49m away at ISO 100 with an aperture of f/1.0 (or at an ISO 200 with an aperture of f/1.4 which is more realistic).

Please note that different modifiers can affect the amount of light that tomes out of your flash.

For a more detailed explanation, Please Click Here.


There is no simple answer to this question, as it depends on the type of work that you are doing and the size of the space you are working in. For example, if you are shooting simple portraits with a medium-sized softbox or umbrella in your living room, then you’ll probably would be able to get away with a fairly low powered flash. If you are shooting a large group in a large venue or studio, then you may want something more powerful.

If you find yourself ever needing more power, you could always compensate by turning your ISO up a stop or two, which will effectively double or quadruple your flash power. Modern DSLRs can produce fairly clean images at ISO 200 or 400. Even slightly older DSLRs can produce relatively noise-free images at ISO 200.


Currently we do not have any software or apps that can do this, but it is something we may look into in the future.

However you can control each of our flash heads, with our Pro AC Trigger set. You can control flash heads in up to 16 groups, and is also cross compatible with our Speedlite trigger set and our High-speed transceivers. Please read this article about the Pixapro Flash Ecosystem for more information.


TTL flashes send out a pre-flash which it uses meter the scene and find out what flash power is needed to get the correct exposure, and then flashes again when shutter opens. This all happens very rapidly, to you it looks like one flash but in reality multiple flashes have occurred.

The reason that your slave flashes didn’t register in your photo is because they had already fired by the time the shutter in your camera had opened (in other words they were triggered by the Pre-flash and not the main exposure flash).

This issue can be resolved by switching your Lumi head(s) to Slave Mode 2 (indicated by a red light where it says “Slave”) which will ignore the pre-flash and fire when the main flash goes off (when the shutter in your camera opens).


There are a few things that maybe causing your slave flash to not fire:

  • Slave flash doesn’t have direct line of sight with master flash; obstacles such as walls and sometimes the type of modifier on your master flash (especially modifiers that restrict the spread of light) can prevent your slave flash from seeing the light from the master flash.
  • Strong sunlight; if you have your slave flash outdoors, or near a window on a bright sunny day, the sun is possibly overpowering the master flash preventing the slave flash from seeing it.


When you use your camera in any of its auto or semi-auto exposure modes (also Auto ISO mode), you camera automatically meters for the ambient light in your environment. Your camera doesn’t take your flash(es) into consideration because as far as your camera is concerned, they are not there. When you take a photograph, your camera will expose for the ambient light, plus you are adding more light into the equation with your flashes, which will cause your photo to be over exposed.

When using studio flashes (or any non-ttl flash) you need to have your camera set to manual mode, and your ISO set to as low as possible to maintain maximum image quality.


These days it is only higher end cameras that come with a PC sync socket, however there are a few ways to get around that problem:

  • You can purchase a hot shoe PC Sync adapter, available at most photographic retailers.
  • Use a wireless radio flash trigger such as the Pro AC Wireless trigger set.


So long as your trigger has a 3.5mm jack connection, then your trigger should work with no problems. If your trigger has the larger 6.3mm jack connection, you can get a 6.3mm to 3.5mm jack adapter from most electrical/audio supply stores.


Yes you can, although you will either need access to a mains power supply, or a generator such as the PowerGenerator 800.

Please be aware that these units are not weatherproof, so caution should be used if you are using in less than ideal conditions.


Yes it should sync at 1/250th no problem, although there are a few things that can affect the maximum sync speed that can be achieved with this flash: a) The max sync speed of your camera which varies from camera to camera (please refer to you camera’s user manual) b) The max sync speed of the flash trigger that you are using can achieve which is sometimes lower than the camera's max sync speed. Flash exposure isn't affected by shutter speed (the shutter speed in flash photography is only used to control the amount of ambient light that appears in your exposure). Shutter speeds of 1/125th and up are usually enough to cancel out any ambient light in and normal indoor studio little to no direct sunlight entering it (unless you're using a really wide aperture e.g. f/1.8).


If your camera has a PC-Sync socket, then it will work with your camera no problem. If your camera doesn’t have a PC-Sync socket, you will need to purchase an adapter to convert their proprietary hot shot mount into a standard hot shoe mount. Once you have this adapter, then our flash kits should work with your Sony Alpha/Minolta camera with no problems.


If your photographs are coming out with a strange colour cast, the chances are that you are using the wrong White balance setting on your camera. Set your camera’s white balance to “Flash” balance and this should fix the problem. Some cameras also allow you to set a custom white balance by shooting something that has a neutral colour (like a grey card) and you can set your white balance that way also. (Please refer to your camera’s user manual).


All of our mains powered products require a voltage of 220-240v (which is the mains voltage used in the UK and most of Europe) to operate properly.


To achieve a pure white background you need to light your background separately to your main subject otherwise the background will appear grey due to light fall off. First of all, you need to be able to pull your subject away from the background if possible to prevent any bounced/reflected light from the background affecting your subject. Then you need to light your background to be about 1-1½ stops brighter (2x brighter) than your main subject allowing you to essentially blowing out (over exposing) your background. If the output from your background lights are too low, the background will appear grey. However, if your background lights are set too high, the light will begin to eat into your subject resulting in an undesirable muddy look with little contrast. You also increase your risk of getting flare in your lens. Ideally your background needs to be lit with at least two lights (one from each side) resulting in a more evenly lit background and to avoid getting dark areas on your final photograph or video footage.


Colour Temperature refers to the colour cast given off by various light sources usually represented by a four or five digit number followed by the letter “K” (which stands for degrees Kelvin. e.g. 5500K). For Example, Tungsten/ Incandescent lights are usually rated between 2700-3500K give off a warm orange coloured light. Electronic Flash, Daylight and anything daylight balanced is usually rated between 5000-6000K will give off a more neutral white light. Anything rated higher than 6000K (e.g. overcast days, LCD/CRT screens) will give off a slightly bluish light. Most cameras come with a range of pre-set White Balance options to help compensate for any colour casts given off by the type of lighting that you are using. Some cameras also give you the option of creating a custom white balance profile, by either shooting something that is of a neutral colour (such as a grey card) or by directly inputting the colour temperature of your lights into your camera.


A slave cell is a sensor built into all of our flash heads that will trigger your flash when it detects the light from another electronic flash, or from an infra-red flash trigger. Slave cells require line of sight, so they may not operate around corners and bright sunlight can sometimes interfere with the signal from another flash. In a home or a in a small to medium sized studio they work with relatively few problems.


Although our Flash kits do have continuous modelling bulbs, but they're not really bright enough to do any video work or photography. They are only designed to give you an idea of where the highlights and shadows are going to fall on your subject when you take your flash exposure. Though it is possible, we would not recommend that you use the modelling lights on your flash kit as a constant light, as the modelling lights are generally not as bright as the lights from a dedicated continuous lighting head. In order to get a decent exposure, you would need to use a very high ISO and/or a very wide aperture setting on your camera. Using a higher ISO setting will result in a reduction of image sharpness due to increased noise in your image. When using a wider aperture, your focusing need to be more critical as when you are using very wide apertures (e.g. F/2.0 or F1.4) your depth of focus is very shallow, and the slightest movement could cause you to miss focus completely.


The chances are your shutter speed is too high. The maximum shutter speed that can be used with a studio flash is called the “Sync Speed” which varies from camera to camera but is usually between 1/125th sec and 1/250th sec (please refer to your camera’s user manual). Most SLR cameras use what’s called a Curtain Shutter which consists of a first curtain, and a second curtain. When you take a photograph, the first curtain will open, and at the end of the exposure the second curtain follows behind it to close the shutter. At shutter speeds below your camera’s sync speed, the first curtain will open fully before the second curtain closes. However, at shutter speeds faster than your camera’s sync speed the second curtain doesn’t have time to wait for the first curtain to fully open and starts to close while the first curtain is still going. Since flashes don’t fire until the first curtain is fully open, at shutter speeds faster than your camera’s synch speed, the second curtain has already started to close leaving you with a black bar (which is actually the second curtain starting to come across). Sometimes the flash trigger that you use can affect the shutter speed that you can use also, so if this is still happening whilst using your camera’s sync speed, check that your flash trigger can be used at that particular shutter speed.

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